Lespedeza capitata leaf / stem extract – a powerful active

The human circadian rhythm regulates certain patterns in the body

The body is regulated by a 24-hour biological clock, or global circadian rhythm, which controls physiological behaviour and metabolism, synthesizes molecules and hormones, and regulates appetite and sleep patterns. When the circadian rhythm is desynchronized or is under too much stress, cells do not function effectively.

What can disrupt this cycle and what is the result?

 The circadian clock can be disrupted by everything from stress and jetlag to electro-magnetic radiation and high energy visible light including blue light emissions from electronic devices, all of which are a part of modern living. The increasing use of digital devices show no signs of abating and the demands of the working environment means extended or unusual working hours, so we are exposed to them 24 X 7.

All the stressors lead to the deregulation of the circadian rhythm and is especially harsh on the skin which shows visible signs of fatigue. Skin fatigue is, for example, characterised by an unhealthy, tired and dull complexion, uneven skin tone and puffiness and dark circles around the eye area.

What is lespedeza capitata leaf / stem extract and what does it do?

It is a plant extract that naturally emulates the cells’ ability to resynchronize and regulate rhythm-dependent biological functions such as skin hydration and detoxification. These significantly reduce skin fatigue, improving complexion, skin tone and eye circles and puffiness.

Coverderm Peptumax range contains lespedeza capitata leaf / stem extract

Together with some other very powerful ingredients, the newly reformulated Coverderm Peptumax treatment range contains lespedeza capitate leaf / stem extract. This treatment range consists of a serum, an eye cream and a day/night cream.

Lespedeza capitate leaf / stem extract is totally plant-based and natural, and it is not tested on animals.

Sequence in your skin care regime matters

According to experts the sequence and the timing of when you apply skin care products is incredibly important. When you apply them at the right time and the right sequence it ensures that your skin receives the full benefits of each product. If applied incorrectly you will not see the best results. Also remember that:

1. Treatment products are much more effective on a properly cleansed, exfoliated, toned and moisturised skin. Your make-up will also last longer.
2. Your skin may need different treatments or care at different times depending on:
⦁ The season
⦁ Your activities
⦁ Internal factors such as ageing, hormonal changes, stress, dietary habits etc.
⦁ External factors such as wind and sun, air conditioning and heating, pollution, electronic pollution, chemical peeling etc.
You may therefor need to adapt the products you use during the year or over time

Evening regime:

Step one: Cleanse

Cleanse thoroughly especially if you use waterproof or water-resistant make-up products or sun protection. Coverderm Camouflage Removing Cream is a gentle deep cleanser that is suitable for the eye area, it moisturises and soothes, is soap free and does not stimulate sebum production

Step two: Exfoliate

Exfoliate gently without irritating or damaging your skin. Coverderm Luminous Exfolia contains perfectly round joboba microspheres that do not damage the skin. It also treats hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone and is healing and soothing.
⦁ Normal and dry skin: 2-3 times per week
Oily skin: 1-2 times per week

Step three: Tone

Tone to make sure that you remove any residue left on the skin. Coverderm Camouflage Extra Care Lotion #1 (normal and dry sensitive skin) and #2 (combination and oily acneic skin) is pH balanced and alcohol free. It also moisturises, is anti-ageing and helps regenerate the skin.

Step four: Apply serum

It is best to apply serums at night, as this is the time that the skin and body does most of its repairing, restoring and regenerating. Coverderm has a number of serums you can choose from depending on the skin condition you want to treat:
⦁ Maxydrat Serum (hydration)
⦁ Peptumax Serum (anti-ageing incl e-ageing)
⦁ Luminous Supreme Serum (hyperpigmentation)
Vanish Serum (facial redness and dark eye circles)

Step five: Apply eye cream

Eye creams must be applied both in the evening and in the morning. Coverderm has a number of eye creams you can choose from depending on the skin condition you want to treat:
⦁ Maxydrat Yeux (hydration)
⦁ Peptumax Yeux (anti-ageing incl e-ageing)
⦁ Luminous Supreme Yeux (hyperpigmentation)
Vanish Yeux (facial redness and dark eye circles)

Step six: Moisturise

You must moisturise both in the evening and in the morning. Coverderm has a number of night and day/night creams you can choose from depending on the skin condition you want to treat:
⦁ Maxydrat Visage – dry, normal or oily (hydration)
⦁ Peptumax Visage (anti-ageing incl e-ageing)
⦁ Luminous Supreme Tri-Activ (hyperpigmentation)
⦁ Vanish Night (facial redness and dark eye circles)
Camouflage Skin Basics

Morning regime:

Step one: Cleanse

Cleanse thoroughly especially if you use waterproof or water-resistant make-up products or sun protection. Coverderm Camouflage Removing Cream is a gentle deep cleanser that is suitable for the eye area, it moisturises and soothes, is soap free and does not stimulate sebum production

Step two: Tone

Tone to make sure that you remove any residue left on the skin. Coverderm Camouflage Extra Care Lotion #1 (normal and dry sensitive skin) and #2 (combination and oily acneic skin) is pH balanced and alcohol free. It also moisturises, is anti-ageing and helps regenerate the skin.

Step three: Apply eye cream

Eye creams must be applied both in the evening and in the morning. Coverderm has a number of eye creams you can choose from depending on the skin condition you want to treat:
⦁ Maxydrat Yeux (hydration)
⦁ Peptumax Yeux (anti-ageing incl e-ageing)
⦁ Luminous Supreme Yeux (hyperpigmentation)
⦁ Vanish Yeux (facial redness and dark eye circles)
⦁ Camouflage Skin Basics

Step four: Moisturise

You must moisturise both in the evening and in the morning. Coverderm has a number of night and day/night creams you can choose from depending on the skin condition you want to treat:
⦁ Maxydrat Visage – dry, normal or oily (hydration)
⦁ Peptumax Visage (anti-ageing incl e-ageing)
⦁ Luminous Supreme SPF 15 (hyperpigmentation)
Vanish Day (facial redness and dark eye circles)

Step five: Apply sun protection

Make-up and moisturisers do not always provide enough protection against the full spectrum of radiation. It is advised that you apply an effective sunblock or sunscreen after your moisturiser and before your make-up. The product should protect against UVA, UVB, High Energy Visible Light (incl Blue Light) and IR. It should also be long-lasting and waterproof. You can choose from the following Coverderm products:
⦁ Filteray Face SPF 40, 60 or 80
⦁ Filteray Face plus SPF 50+

Step six: Apply make-up base or primer

Before you start to apply your make-up, it is advisable to apply a make-up base or primer. You can apply a thinner layer of make-up, your make-up spreads more evenly and smoothly, and it then lasts longer and looks more natural. Coverderm Camouflage Skin Protector has a very light fine texture, it protects against environmental damage and it moisturises and soothes. It is also hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic and long-lasting

You are now ready to apply your make-up !!!!

Glycogen – an amazing active ingredient

Your skin is a living organism

Your skin is doing some amazing things for you, day and night, 24/7! It protects you from the everyday effects of the environment like UV damage and pollution, repairs damage caused by these effects (as well as all those cuts and scrapes), and moderates which substances (and how much) can enter or leave your body to maintain an optimal balance.  Your skin is a living organism, and it requires energy to fuel all these important functions.

Where does your skin get this energy from?

It turns out that energy is stored in your skin the same way it’s stored throughout the rest of your body – in carbohydrate molecules. The amazing active ingredient glycogen is made up of many glucose (sugar) molecules, packed together so that they can be stored efficiently in cells as carbohydrate molecules. These are then used as an energy source.

The amount of energy your skin stores reduces as you get older

The amount of energy your skin stores decreases as you age, so that over time there is less energy available to the cells to perform everything they need to do to maintain youthful looking skin: Cellular renewal slows down and the rate at which the skin can produce components that impact structure and suppleness, like hyaluronic acid, elastin and collagen, begin to decline.

Electronic pollution speeds up the ageing process

The ageing process is also speeded up by the sea of electronic pollution we live in in today’s life, that is electro-magnetic radiation and high energy visible light including blue light (emmited by cell phones, wi-fi, computers etc). Some of these are visible and others are not. This is known as e-ageing and has now been identified as one of the four main causes of deep and medium wrinkles and fine lines (the other three being natural ageing, photo-ageing and expression lines). And, because you are exposed to electronic pollution 24 hours a day, protection against the ravaging effects are critical.

What glycogen does for your skin

When glycogen, which is identical to carbohydrates already found in your body, is applied topically, it gives your skin an extra boost of energy to keep working at its best. It naturally reenergises and fuels the skin.

There is glycogen in the new Coverderm Peptumax range

Together with some other very powerful ingredients, the newly reformulated Coverderm Peptumax treatment range contains glycogen.

This range consists of a serum, an eye cream, a day/night cream, a make-up, a concealer and a compact powder. Apart from the new ingredients the make-up products also all have an SPF 50+ which protects against high energy visible light including blue light.

Importantly the glycogen used in Coverderm Peptumax is totally plant-based, natural and not derived from, or tested on animals.

 

Not all skins react the same way during pregnancy

There are lucky women who experience the best skin of their lives during pregnancy. They literally glow from within, but there are others who battle with skin conditions associated with hormonal changes. So, not every pregnant woman will experience the same skin conditions.

1. Call it what you will, pregnancy mask, melasma, chloasma, the bottom line is that hyper pigmentation during pregnancy is very common. A woman’s body produces more hormones during pregnancy, and this may result in darkened blotchy spots on the forehead, upper lip, nose, chin and cheeks. These blotchy spots may completely disappear after giving birth, but for some it does not and requires further attention to prevent and treat.

⦁ Good news! The Coverderm Luminous hyperpigmentation range is safe to use during pregnancy and is clinically proven to significantly reduce blemishes.

2. Other hormonal skin changes might include acne and a dehydration. During the first trimester of pregnancy acne and breakouts are fairly common as this is when the body’s hormone levels start to increase. This increases the skin’s oil production and may lead to acne, clogged pores and blackheads. As the skin stretches and tightens to accommodate the growing belly it loses elasticity and moisture.

⦁ To give your skin a fighting chance it is important to:

⦁ Drink plenty of water during pregnancy to hydrate your skin from the inside out, but more than likely this will not be enough
⦁ Use cleansers, toners and make-ups that moisturise your skin, are gentle and do not clog pores so make sure the products you use adhere to this
⦁ Hydrate the skin on your face with the Coverderm Maxydrat range which hydrates throughout all levels of the skin

3. A third important aspect to remember is that your skin is extra sensitive to radiation during this time and this encourages the development of hyperpigmentation. Always apply good sun protection products on your face and body. And remember that high energy visible and blue light, as well as electro-magnetic radiation are emitted from electronic devices 24 hours a day, so especially you face needs protection all day long. Make sure the face product you choose provides this kind of protection.

Dr Raboobee, president of the Vitiligo Society of South Africa

Dr Raboobee, president of the Vitiligo Society of South Africa, has coordinated efforts in three major cities in South Africa to host Vitiligo Day meetings. Dr Raboobee’s interest in vitiligo began when he noticed the dismal fear in patients given a diagnosis of vitiligo, many thinking that they were going to turn all white in a few weeks. He realised that there was very little known about vitiligo and that many patients thought that nothing could be done about their condition. The condition evoked strong negative psychological effects on sufferers. He felt there was a massive need to create awareness in the country as few patients knew about the dramatic effects one achieved with Excimer laser and phototherapy and many were unaware of topical, systemic and surgical possibilities.

The Vitiligo Society of South Africa was established in 2008 to provide exactly this type of awareness and support to patients with vitiligo. The Society maintains a website which is kept up to date with latest treatments and discoveries in the field of vitiligo. An annual World Vitiligo Day meeting is held in various parts of the country, Newsletters are distributed. Dr Raboobee is also part of the International Vitiligo Working Group and has contributed book chapters and articles in peer reviewed journals. He has recruited several vitiligo researchers to South Africa to teach local dermatologists the latest surgical techniques in the field.

Dr Raboobee insists that without the support of his team – secretary, treasurer, co-opted members and dermatologists in other cities, the degree of awareness of vitiligo that the VSSA has achieved would not have been possible. Dr Raboobee appeared on two health talk shows on SABC 2 to discuss the subject of vitiligo and has also taken awareness campaigns to schools. A poster on vitiligo designed by him has been translated into 4 languages already and more are on the way.

Dr Noufal Raboobee
Dermatologist
President: Vitiligo Society of South Africa
T: +27 31 265 1505
W: www.drnraboobee.com
A: Suite 292, Westville Hospital, 7 Spine Road, Westville, 3630, South Africa

Coverderm Peptumax e-ageing treatment range is specially formulated to protect the skin against damage caused by HEV and EMR

We live in a sea of electronic pollution, so we need to protect our skins 24 by 7

During the day we are exposed to the full spectrum of the sun’s radiation, and we have learned how important it is to wear sunscreens and sun blocks during the day and when we are outside. However, in the modern world we are not only exposed to radiation during daylight hours. We are also exposed to:

  • High Energy Visible Light (HEV) including Blue Light and
  • Electro Magnetic Radiation (EMR)

These are emitted throughout the day and night, making us live inside a sea of pollution 24 hours a day.

Newly formulated Coverderm Peptumax e-ageing treatment products

The new Coverderm Peptumax e-ageing treatment range is specially formulated to protect the skin against damage caused by HEV and EMR. The sensitive area around the eyes is especially vulnerable to this kind of damage and the Peptumax treatment range includes an eye cream to address this. Read some more about HEV and EMR below.

High Energy Visible Light and Blue Light is visible to the eye and is emitted by for example:

  • Digital screens
  • Computer screens
  • Laptops
  • TVs
  • Smart or cell phones
  • Tablets
  • LED lighting
  • Fluorescent lighting

What does HEV and Blue Light do to your skin?

  • High Energy Visible and Blue Light penetrates the skin deeper than both UVA and UVB rays. It induces significant amounts of oxidative stress, weakens the epidermal barrier, enhances hyperpigmentation and damages the extracellular matrix.
  • The oxidative stress leads to, for example, microcirculatory slow down, dark eye circles, bags under the eyes and a dull complexion.
  • The damage to the extracellular matrix creates a situation where UVA, UVB and IR rays can cause damage more easily.
  • It also leads to e-ageing, one of the four main causes of wrinkles and fine lines.

Electro Magnetic Radiation (EMR) is not visible to the eye, and is emitted by for example:

  • Cell phone signals
  • Radio and TV towers
  • Wi-Fi
  • Microwave ovens
  • Wireless connections, i.e.:
  • bluetooth devices
  • computers
  • headphones
  • cordless phones
  • doorbells
  • baby monitors
  • gaming equipment

What does EMR do to your skin?

  • It leads to the excessive production of cell-damaging free radicals
  • It weakens the skin’s own defence mechanism
  • It causes DNA damage which leads to the death of skin cells
  • It causes oxidative stress, weakens the epidermal barrier, enhances hyperpigmentation and damages the extracellular matrix.
  • Oxidative stress leads to, for example, microcirculatory slow down, dark eye circles, bags under the eyes and a dull complexion.
  • The damage to the extracellular matrix creates a situation where UVA, UVB and IR rays can cause damage more easily.
  • It also leads to e-ageing, one of the four main causes of wrinkles and fine lines.
  • Because EMR is emitted throughout the day and night, you must protect your skin 24 hours a day.

More about skin conditions that result from oxidative stress that is cause by both HEV and EMR

  • Chronic inflammation
  • Intensified cutaneous fatigue which leads to skin rashes and itching
  • Microcirculation slow down
  • Dark eye circles or eye bags
  • Decrease of skin cohesion
  • Skin regeneration slowdown
  • Hyperpigmentation
  • Dull complexion
  • Excessive wrinkling

 

Differences between the Coverderm Perfect Legs and Perfect Legs fluid

The main differences between the Coverderm Perfect Legs and Perfect Legs fluid is the coverage and the texture.

*Coverderm Perfect Legs: Maximum cover concealing foundation for legs and body.  It has a velvety texture.

*Coverderm Perfect Legs Fluid:  Medium cover concealing foundation for legs and body. It has a more liquid texture than Perfect Legs.

Herewith more information on both products:

*Coverderm Perfect Legs: Maximum cover concealing foundation for legs and body

Action: Naturally and perfectly conceals blemishes and imperfection on legs and body, such as varicose veins, stretch marks, phlebitis, vitiligo, scars, burns, dark marks, sun spots, moles, bruises, and tattoos.

Characteristics: Easy to apply, waterproof, long-lasting, perfectly elastic, hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, moisturising, anti-septic, anti-irritant, healing, SPF 16 (UVA and UVB), suitable for all skin types and available in 9 natural shades. There are independent clinical studies to support claims. The products are not tested on animals. (https://www.nailmeticsstore.co.za/product/camouflage-perfect-legs-2/)

*Coverderm Perfect Legs Fluid:  Medium cover concealing foundation for legs and body

Action: Naturally and perfectly conceals blemishes and imperfection on legs and body, such as varicose veins, stretch marks, phlebitis, vitiligo, scars, burns, dark marks, sun spots, moles, bruises, and tattoos.

Characteristics: It has a more liquid texture than Perfect Legs. It is waterproof, long-lasting, perfectly elastic, hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, moisturising, healing, anti-irritant, anti-septic, easy to apply, SPF 40 (UVA and UVB), available in 8 natural shades including 2 for skins of colour and suitable for all skin types. There are independent clinical studies to support claims. The products are not tested on animals. (https://www.nailmeticsstore.co.za/product/camouflage-perfect-legs/)

We would suggest you go to one of these Dis-Chem stores and ask for the Coverderm Consultant or Cosmetic Manager for assistance:

It is better to test the colour before you buy as you have to view the foundation in natural and artificial lighting conditions.  It might be better to make an appointment with them, so that they can give you their undivided attention.

Alternatively, you can purchase a tester kit on our online store.  There is a series of questions which will help to determine the recommended tester kit for you.  The cost of a tester kit is R175, which includes at least three shades and a R175-discount voucher (valid for 3 months). The voucher is then redeemable with your on-line purchase of the full-size product that you chose.  Please follow this link for the tester kits: https://www.nailmeticsstore.co.za/foundation-finder/

Application procedure for the Coverderm Perfect Legs and Perfect Legs Fluid.

  1. Ensure that your legs are smooth (shaved/ waxed and exfoliated).
  2. Apply a water-based lotion (like Aqueous cream). The lotion must not contain mineral oils.
  3. After your lotion has been absorbed, apply Coverderm Perfect Legs or Perfect Legs Fluid by rubbing a small amount between your hands to warm the product to body temperature. Then spread out evenly.
  4. After Coverderm Perfect Legs or Perfect Legs Fluid has dried on your skin, set with water (water spray bottle/ damp cloth).
  5. Dab your skin dry.
  6. Apply more Coverderm Perfect Legs or Perfect Legs Fluid where needed. Blend evenly.
  7. After Coverderm Perfect Legs or Perfect Legs Fluid has dried on your skin, set with water (water spray bottle/ damp cloth).
  8. Remove with soap/ body wash.

Camouflage Classic, Concealer & Finishing Powder

Coverderm Camouflage Classic, Concealer and Finishing Powder

Maximum cover concealing foundation for major skin conditions and imperfections

Since biblical times visible skin lesions have caused distress in sufferers. These may include vascular or pigmented birthmarks, pigmentary problems such as vitiligo (white patches) and melasma (darker patches), eczemas and psoriasis and even simple freckles.

Although Coverderm Camouflage cannot cure the skin condition, it can cover the lesion to such a degree that it may be completely indistinguishable. This could instantaneously improve quality of life and gives the patient the opportunity to return to normal activities.

In cases where the skin condition is treatable, Coverderm Camouflage can give instant ‘improvement’ of the condition while awaiting the action of other treatments to become visible.  Coverderm Camouflage is also highly effective in covering up unwanted tattoos.

  

Unique features of Coverderm Camouflage are that, after stabilizing and fixing it to the skin with Coverderm Finishing Powder, it is water-resistant and should stay put for up to 16 hours. Therefore, the coverage will not suddenly unbeknownst to the patient disappear during the activities of the day. It also does not have any negative effects such as clogging the pores or not allowing the skin to breathe and perspire. The beeswax in the products is healing, and is a natural anti-septic. The technique of applying and stabilizing the product should be explained and demonstrated by a trained professional for maximum benefit.

Coverderm Camouflage should be seen as a paramedical intervention and not as make-up or a cosmetic procedure. With this knowledge, groups of individuals who usually avoid make-up, should feel more comfortable in using these medical maximum cover camouflaging products.

Article by Dr. Suretha Kannenberg (Dermatologist in Cape Town)

About Dr Suretha Kannenberg

 Dr. Kannenberg qualified as a medical doctor (MBChB) in 1999 at Stellenbosh University. She spent some time practising in the United Kingdom after which she returned to South Africa to practice at the Karl Bremer and Tygerberg Academic Hospitals. After specialising in dermatology, she received her Master’s degree Medicine in 2012.

 Dr Kannenberg is registered with the Health Professions Council, is a member of the Dermatology Society of South Africa and regularly participates in congresses, conferences etc. She is also a member of the executive committee of the African Women’s Dermatologic Society.

 Dr Kannenberg is very passionate about her calling and enjoys caring for babies right through to the elderly, from acne and eczema through to aesthetic practices to enhance natural beauty.

Cleansing, toning & exfoliating

Removing Cream

All-in-one cream cleanser

Characteristics:

  • Effectively removes waterproof make-up and sun block
  • Extremely gentle yet deeply cleansing
  • Cleanses not only the skin’s surface but also inside the pores
  • Gentle enough to use even around the sensitive eye area
  • Does not stimulate sebum production
  • It is a moisturiser and it softens the skin, leaving a fresh glow
  • Is regenerating, healing and soothing and therefor also anti-ageing
  • It is soap free, so it does not irritate or dry the skin
  • Hypoallergenic
  • Suitable for all skin types
  • Independent clinical studies
  • Not tested on animals

Interesting facts:

  • Cleansing prepares the skin to ensure better absorption of treatment products
  • Cleansing stimulate your skin’s circulation to boost radiance
  • Cleansing encourages skin hydration and prevents the production of excess oils
  • If you cleanse your face more than twice a day you can strip the skin of its natural oils resulting in tightness
  • If you do not cleanse enough it can lead to a build-up of oil, resulting in clogged pores, blackheads and blemishes.
  • Coverderm Removing Cream can be used by people:
    • On roacutane
    • With psoriasis
    • Eczema
    • Acne

Coverderm’s Removing Cream won the woman&home #StraightTalking Beauty Award for the best make-up remover in 2019

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Extra Care Lotion

Extremely gentle treatment toner

Characteristics:

  • Available in two formulations (one for Dry /Sensitive Skins and one for Oily Skins)
  • Alcohol-free and PH balanced
  • Ensures that all residue left by a cleanser is removed completely
  • It also removes oil and dirt from the pores, creating the appearance of smaller pores
  • Leaves a feeling of freshness and softness
  • Deeply moisturises
  • Keeps moisture locked in
  • Anti-aging
  • Regenerating
  • Anti-irritant
  • Hypoallergenic
  • Independent clinical studies
  • Not tested on animals

Characteristics:

  • Available in two formulations (one for Dry /Sensitive Skins and one for Oily Skins)
  • Alcohol-free and PH balanced
  • Ensures that all residue left by a cleanser is removed completely
  • It also removes oil and dirt from the pores, creating the appearance of smaller pores
  • Leaves a feeling of freshness and softness
  • Deeply moisturises
  • Keeps moisture locked in
  • Anti-aging
  • Regenerating
  • Anti-irritant
  • Hypoallergenic
  • Independent clinical studies
  • Not tested on animals

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Luminous Exfolia

A gentle, purifying facial scrub for deep exfoliation and treatment of hyperpigmentation

Characteristics:

  • Inhibits the production of melanin which causes hyperpigmentation
  • Deeply exfoliates without irritating or damaging the skin
  • Treats uneven skin tone
  • Leaves the skin smoother and with a more radiant glow
  • Forms a smoother canvas on which to apply a foundation
  • Healing
  • Soothing
  • Moisturising formulation makes it safe to use regularly
  • Anti-inflammatory
  • Anti-oxidant
  • Hypoallergenic
  • Suitable for all skin types
  • Independent clinical studies
  • Not tested on animals

Interesting facts:

  • An exfoliated skin functions much better and any active ingredients are absorbed more efficiently
  • For a dry skin we recommend that you exfoliate 2-3 times a week, and for oily skin 1-2 times a week
  • One of the key ingredients is jojoba beads. Jojoba beads are biodegradable, so they are friendly to the environment
  • The beads are very similar in structure to skin’s nature oil, referred to as sebum. For this reason, Luminous Exfolia can be used by people with:
  • acneic skins
  • pregnant ladies

Many exfoliation products contain nut by-products, so Luminous Exfolia is also a good choice for anyone who is allergic to nuts

More about various sun protection product claims

As sun protection products from all over the world have become available to consumers, they are now being confronted with a confusing choice of sun radiation protection claims. While they are meant to inform us about the level of protection a sunscreen provides, the different regulations, labels, and how the claims are tested can be overwhelming and confusing.

Research into understanding what is important for effective sun protection, a growing problem worldwide, is an important and continuous process. As new findings become available, pharmaceutical companies are identifying and developing new ingredients that make sun protection products more effective. This will impact labelling and claims that can be made. So, the situation is not static, but changes all the time.

Also, different parts of the world are also not using the same approach to defining the level of protection provided. So, as products from different parts of the world become available to consumers in any country there will continue to be some confusion.

One of the biggest challenges to manufactures and distributors of sun protection products is the education of the medical professionals who recommend products as well as consumers themselves who use the products.

Basic information about the various sunscreen claims and labels.

There is a difference between how inorganic (physical) and organic filters work

  1. Inorganic (physical) filters:
    • Inorganic filters reflect or scatter the sun’s radiation rays, they act much like a mirror reflecting light.
    • They therefor do not penetrate the skin.
    • They reflect the full spectrum of radiation, not just certain wavelengths.
    • Products with inorganic filters are often referred to as sun blocks.
    • Products with physical filters are very photo-stable.
    • Mostly these products contain titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and phycocorail.
    • The scientific community agree that natural filters offer superior protection from the full spectrum of radiation than organic filters do.
  1. Inorganic filters:
    • Inorganic filters filter radiation so that fewer of the rays reach the deeper levels of the skin.
    • They therefor do penetrate the skin.
    • These are often referred to as sunscreens and not sun blocks.
    • Depending on the formulation these products can:
      1. Protect against the full spectrum of radiation
      2. Be photo-stable
    • Consumers should however make sure that there is evidence for these claims.

What to look for when you choose or use a sun protection product

  1. Photo-stability of the product

It is important that a product remains photo-stable when exposed to sunlight. Some products do not remain stable and therefore become ineffective a short time after exposure to direct sunlight. You are then protected.

  1. Water-resistant or water-proof capabilities

It is important that a product has water resistant or waterproof capabilities. If it does not, it simply washes off when swimming or sweating, leaving the skin unprotected.

  1. It is advisable that the product is soothing, moisturising and revitalising

It is important to remember that whether one actually burns or not, damage occurs when the skin comes into contact with direct or even indirect sunlight, especially when combined with water. Products that contain soothing, moisturising and revitalising ingredients help to combat this.

  1. It is advisable that the product is hypoallergenic

Products that are hypoallergenic will make them suitable for all skin types and lessens the chance that the skin becomes irritated when exposed to the sunlight.

  1. The amount of product that should be applied

Consumers must ensure that they apply the sun protection product as per instruction on the packaging. Many consumers do not apply sufficient product for the level of protection required.

  1. Re-applying the product as prescribed.

It is critical that the consumer re-applies the product as per the instruction on the packaging. Many consumers do not re-apply product as is required for a continued level of protection.

 

SPF: Sun Protection Factor

  1. What it does for your skin: 

SPF factors only deal with the UVB part of the ultraviolet radiation that comes from the sun and reaches the surface of the earth. UVB energy causes redness and sunburn on the skin.

  1. How it works: 

SPF is tested on a panel of ± 20 sun-sensitive people (depending on the country) and it compares how much longer it takes for UVB to cause redness on the skin. So, an SPF of 30 means that, if it took 10 minutes for redness to appear in unprotected skin, it’ll take around 30 times that (i.e. 300 minutes) for the same symptoms to appear on the skin if the SPF 30 product was applied sufficiently and correctly.

  1. Disadvantages

·         The SPF scale is not linear relative to how much UVB it blocks. For example, the level of UVB protection for an SPF 30 (96.7% UVB protection) is not double that of an SPF 15 (93% UVB protection). There is only a 3.7% increase. This does cause confusion amongst consumers who believe that there is a significant increase in the amount of protection they have.

  • Unfortunately, it is also not an indication of the level of protection provided against the other forms of radiation that causes damage to the skin e.g. UVA, IR and High Energy Visible Light (including Blue Light).
  • One should therefor never only look at the SPF of a sun protection product.

UVA: Ultraviolet A

  1. More on UVA: 

The SPF factor was developed at a time when we didn’t fully understand how damaging other forms of ultraviolet radiation was to our skin. UVA makes up the majority of the UV radiation that comes from the sun and reaches the surface of the earth. It is only relatively recently that we realize how bad it was for our skin.

  1. What it does to your skin: 

UVA radiation doesn’t cause as much redness or sunburn, but it damages the basic structure of the skin, which leads to mutations and in worst cases, cancer. For skin care the implication is that it speeds up ageing (wrinkles, lines, and saggy skin), and it causes hyperpigmentation. UVA radiation penetrates the deeper levels of skin and is present all through the day, even on cloudy days.

  1. How to protect your skin against UVA:

Nowadays, there are better sunscreen filters that protect against UVA radiation and there are tests that have been developed to create a “protection factor” for UVA.

High Energy Visible Light (including Blue Light)

 

  1. More about High Energy Visible Light (HEV) and Blue Light
  • HEV (High energy visible radiation) penetrates the skin much deeper than UVB and UVA rays and can be seen throughout daylight hours.
  • Visible light includes blue light which has up to 80% of the intensity of visible light. Blue light is emitted by devices such as smart phones, computers and TV screens.
  1. What it does to your skin:
  • HEV penetrates the skin deeper than UVA and almost as deep as IR.
  • HEV induces oxidative stress, weakens the epidermal barrier, enhances hyperpigmentation and damages the extracellular matrix to create a situation where the UVA, UVB and IR rays can cause damage more easily.
  • Oxidative stress also leads to, for example, microcirculatory slow down, dark eye circles, bags under the eyes, dull complexion and excessive wrinkling.
  • Because Blue Light is emitted by devices people are exposed to these inside offices and homes, and in the dark, making protection against blue light critical 24 hours a day.
  1. How to protect your skin against High Energy Visible Light:

New generation sun protection products contain ingredients to protect against HEV radiation and Blue Light. The regulations related to claims and packaging re HEV have not as yet been standardised

IR radiation: Infrared radiation

  1. More on IR radiation

Infrared radiation is also known as thermal radiation.

  1. What it does to your skin: 

IR radiation penetrates the skin much deeper than either UVA and UVB. It also causes ageing and a decrease in elasticity and the moisture levels of the skin. Because it negatively impacts on the DNA structure of the skin, damage caused by UVA, UVB and HEV radiation is increased.

  1. How to protect your skin against IR:

Nowadays, there are better sunscreen filters that protect against IR radiation. The regulations related to claims and packaging re IR also differ widely across the world, many not even mentioning this at all.

The Cosmetics Europe seal of approval

Cosmetics Europe have the following seal that may be displayed on products should they conform to the necessary requirements for protection against UVA, UVB and IR (this is comparable to the CANSA labelling in South Africa, but with more stringent requirements set to qualify to use it):

Cosmetics Europe: European Cosmetics, Toiletry and Perfumery Association

The Cosmetics Europe protocols are currently the most recognised standards that prevail internationally for these products. This is especially true of sun protection products.

UVAPF testing method used by Cosmetics Europe

 

  1. What it stands for: 

A testing method for used for testing the level UVA protection in products.

  1. How it works:

Cosmetic requires that at least 33.33 % of the SPF factor of a sun protection product must be based on the level of UVA protection it provides before they can make the claim that it protects against UVA radiation.

  1. UVAPF testing and products with natural filters

Because inorganic (natural) filters reflect or scatter the sun’s rays, UVAPF testing does not work on these products. If a natural filter product is selected the consumer must make sure that there are other independent studies available to support claims made.

 

PPD: Persistent Pigment Darkening

How it works:

Used in Asia and some countries in Europe, this system is similar to the SPF scenario, with the main difference being that it looks at the effect of UVA exposure not UVB. PPD is tested on a panel of people exposed to UVA light. The time it takes for their skin to tan is analysed, comparing the results between unprotected and protected skin. So, a PPD of 10 means that it will take around 10 times longer for your skin to tan, compared to if it was unprotected

PA: Protection Grade of UVA

 

  1. How it works:

Used in Asian countries like Japan and South Korea, the PA system simplifies and groups the ratings from a PPD test. It ranges from PA+ to PA++++. PA+ being a sunscreen with a PPD of 2 to less than 4; PA++ being one with PPD of 4 to 8; PA+++ being one from 8 to 16 and, finally; PA++++ being one with a PPD of 16 or greater.

  1. Disadvantages:
  • Because of the way PA is set up, two sunscreens with a PPD of 20 and a PPD of 50 would both be rated as PA+++ or PA+++, and there’s no way to tell which one offers the higher protection.
  • It also does not provide any information on the level of UVB (SPF), IR and HEV protection provided
  1. More to know:

Not all countries have updated the highest rating to PA++++ yet, still using PA+++ as their limit for maximum protection.

 

Broad-spectrum: Protection Grade of UVA

  1. How it works:

Used in the U.S. and Canada, this is an easier rating to pass—and doesn’t provide a good understanding of how well it will protect the skin from UVA or IR damage. To achieve a broad-spectrum rating, 90% of the total UV absorption must fall below 370 nanometres which is the wavelength of ultraviolet light. This doesn’t necessarily translate to good UVA protection.

  1. A sunscreen that protects against UVA and UVB qualifies as broad spectrum:

There is some criticism from consumer advocates over the fact that the testing required by the regulators in the USA to earn that ranking is pass / fail (meaning that if a sunscreen provides any measurable protection from UVA rays, it can call itself broad spectrum, even if that level of protection is very low. Other countries, however, have different regulations on sun protection products, so many sunscreens from Europe and Asia show much more specific rankings for the levels of UVA protection.